With the Chinese New Year fast approaching, millions are cramming onto crowded trains, embarking on one of the world’s largest annual migrations, or chunyun. For decades, instant noodles were an inseparable part of this journey home—a steaming cup of comfort amid the chaos. Though modern conveniences like food delivery have made their way onto trains, and many trains have stopped selling noodles altogether, the tradition endures. Many travelers still pack a cup, savoring not just the taste, but the nostalgia of a ritual deeply woven into the rhythm of coming home.

Since their introduction in the 1960s, instant noodles have become ubiquitous across the Chinese mainland. China leads the world in instant noodle consumption: In 2022, the demand for instant noodles in the country reached 45 billion servings, accounting for nearly 40 percent of the global total, according to consulting firm huaon.com. Yet, instant noodles are often dismissed as junk food or associated with financial hardship. As healthier eating trends gain traction and disposable incomes rise, the industry faces mounting pressure to sustain sales—a challenge that cannot be solved simply by the chunyun traditions.

In 1964, Beijing Food Factory made an early attempt at producing instant noodles using duck oil, but the effort fell flat. It wasn’t until 1970 that China saw its first successful instant noodle product: “Happiness,” created by Shanghai Yimin 4th Food Factory—the same producer behind the iconic treats like White Rabbit Candy and Bright Brick-Shaped Ice Cream during the 1950s. However, what truly elevated instant noodles to national fame was the introduction of braised beef flavor by Master Kong, a brand established in Tianjin in 1991 by the Wei brothers from Taiwan. By adding packets of sauce to replicate the rich taste of real braised beef, the company revolutionized the instant noodle experience. This innovation allowed Master Kong to carve out a strong presence in China, and it continues to dominate the market today, holding a commanding 45 percent market share.

Foreign brands have also made their mark in the Chinese market: China is the top export destination for South Korea’s instant noodles. NISSIN from Japan, Yumyum from Thailand, Indomie from Malaysia, and Laksa from Singapore are all commonly found in supermarkets across the country.

The appeal of instant noodles is undeniable: affordable, flavorful, and convenient, they quickly became a staple for migrant workers. According to Xinmin Weekly, the growth of the instant noodle market paralleled the rise in the number of migrant workers, reflecting China’s economic boom during the reform and opening up era.

From 1993, a year after Master Kong’s braised beef instant noodles hit the shelves, to 2011, instant noodle sales in China increased for 18 consecutive years. Sales volume peaked in 2013, the same year Meituan launched its food delivery service. The rise of delivery platforms in China dealt a serious blow to the instant noodle industry, offering consumers more convenient options that require the same, or even less, time and effort, especially with the frequent promotions offered by these platforms. According to the 21st Century Business Herald, Master Kong experienced three consecutive years of sales declines from 2015 to 2017. Even though the global pandemic temporarily boosted the industry, sales from top players like Uni-President and Master Kong declined again in 2023 as the country emerged from the Covid-19 pandemic.

Moreover, instant noodles have struggled to shed their reputation as junk food, largely due to their high sodium and fat content, as well as their oil-fried noodle cakes. Parents and educators often lump them together with other “unhealthy” foods from street vendors, such as latiao (spicy strips).

“There was a bubble tea shop near my school, and they also cooked instant noodles. You could even pay extra for a foreign brand,” recalls Clemence Chan (pseudonym), a 27-year-old oncologist and instant noodle enthusiast. She admits that as a child, she could only eat instant noodles in secret when her parents were at work.

In 2005, the instant noodle brand Wugudaochang attempted to address health concerns by introducing a non-fried noodle cake. The product was an instant hit, generating 6 million yuan in sales revenue within its first month. However, the success was short-lived, as poor management soon led to the brand’s decline.

“People just have more options now,” says Rita Li (pseudonym), a 27-year-old office worker in Beijing whose limited cooking skills make her a frequent customer of instant food. These days, she prefers instant pasta and rice noodles over classic instant noodles, as they often come with more ingredient packets—some even include seasoned seafood. Although these options are typically more expensive and take longer to prepare, she finds them worth the effort. “Even when I eat instant noodles, I cook them properly [using a pot instead of just pouring hot water into the cup]. But since I’ve already turned on the stove, why not make something with a little more sense of ritual?” says Li, referring to a growing trend among young Chinese who transform everyday routines into aesthetically pleasing, intentional moments.

Li is not alone. According to a 2023 industry report by iResearch, almost 60 percent of consumers say they are not opposed to using extra equipment to cook instant noodles.

Videos for creative ways to cook instant noodles are ubiquitous on Chinese social media. On the streaming platform Bilibili, a video titled “Five Heavenly Ways to Eat Instant Noodles Late at Night! The Taste is Comparable to Michelin-Level!” garnered nearly 9 million views. In these tutorials, young people unleash their creativity to elevate the humble instant noodles into something extraordinary. Among the most popular recipes are stir-fried instant noodles (often made with tomatoes, onions, and ham), braised beef instant noodles featuring real beef chunks and rich broth, instant noodles with a spicy Sprite sauce (a mix of chili powder, sesame, boiling oil, Sprite, and other spices), and even instant noodles cooked with bubble tea.

The iResearch report also highlights that as consumers’ expectations for food quality and standards continue to rise, instant and convenience foods must evolve to offer high-quality, distinctive products, with flavors that increasingly rival those of restaurant dishes.

To stay competitive against emerging instant food brands, industry leaders like Master Kong have been rolling out new products with enhanced flavors and premium ingredients. Last summer, the brand launched a standout hit: dried noodles featuring real crayfish—a seasonal favorite among young Chinese that is typically difficult to preserve for extended periods. The products sold out within hours of their livestream launch on Douyin, China’s version of TikTok. Master Kong followed up with two more sales events, both of which yielded the same result. Though its success might have more to do with marketing than the product itself: The brand employed limited stock releases and targeted advertising campaigns specifically tailored to young consumers.

In 2017, restaurants dedicated solely to serving instant noodles began to emerge. One such brand, Yibaiwei, gained viral popularity on social media platforms like Weibo and Xiaohongshu in 2018, partly due to its aesthetically pleasing, photo-friendly decor. This buzz helped the brand open over 500 chain stores across the country within a year. However, the trend proved short-lived, with more than half of the restaurants closing within the same period. This outcome underscores the enduring core appeal of instant noodles: they must remain cheap and time-saving.

“For me, instant noodles will always carry the label of ‘make-do food,’ no matter how fancy they get or how many extra ingredients I add,” Li tells TWOC. “But I think there will always be a market for them because they are an essential backup—something people can always find in their cupboard.”